The Barafu Hut outhouse, situated about 15,000 feet up Mt. Kilimanjaro.
The English lexicon contains words for the persistent fear that peanut butter will stick to the roof of your mouth ("Arachibutyrophobia") and the act of tossing someone out a window ("defenestration"). "Handschuhschneeballwurfer" is a German word referring to someone who wears gloves to throw a snowball. The East Greenlandic word for four-year-old harp seal is "aalattooruaq". And in Tanzania, as I discovered in August of 2001, there is a Swahili word for "Holy shit! A cement truck just pissed in my mouth!"
That word is "mbege".
Having successfully summited Mt. Kilimanjaro the day before, my friend Tubs and I (along with ten other climbers, two guides, and roughly thirty porters) ended our long descent at a small village "cafe" for a celebratory drink. After a week of hiking, we were a weary, dirty lot eager to imbibe something other than iodine-infused water. But a hush fell over the group when I suggested we toast our accomplishment with some mbege (pronounced em-bay-gay), a banana-based beer I'd read was the preferred intoxicant of the locals.
Remembering an episode with some poorly-filtered water, my compatriots decided they weren't up for the adventure. Undeterred, I reiterated my desire to the proprietor. He seemed oddly apprehensive, but finally dispatched a young boy to fetch the mbege. To my surprise, instead of heading toward the icebox for a cold bottle, the urchin ran outside and started rattling into the ear of an elderly villager he saw walking down the dirt road. This man in turn whispered into the ear of another passerby, who promptly took off at a sprint behind a row of huts. A few minutes later an altogether different man appeared with a filthy plastic cup that appeared to have been dredged from the La Brea Tar Pits. He handed it to me with a toothless smile and said, "Mbege".
An inner voice told me I might have been better served ordering black mayonnaise pie.
The beverage housed within this diseased goblet wasn't brown, amber, or even yellowish in color -- it was a disconcerting, gray shade of murk that had "Nick Nolte's bath water" written all over it. I winced as the potent aroma of old army blanket soaked in rubbing alcohol wafted to my nose. Most disturbing was the fact that it didn't possess the physical properties of a liquid. It was a viscous, granular sludge that would have looked more at home on the end of a trowel. Intuition told me that calling this shit "beer" was like calling a pile of wet leaves a Chef's salad.
As my fellow climbers, a handful of porters, and several villagers looked on, I freed the fermented mortar from its mooring with a revolting sucking sound. Before they died, millions of taste receptors and tracheal nerve endings relayed one final message to my brain -- "You fucking asshole!" -- as a gritty miscarriage of sand, three-hundred-octane Metamucil, and the embalming fluid leaking out of Andre the Giant's mummified asshole barreled down my gullet like a lead meatball. Could it be that mbege, like pepper spray and truck-stop hookers, was an acquired taste?
Again I hoisted the plastic chalice to my trembling lips. Fire spread across my chest as my liver announced that from this moment forward, it was working under protest. Yes, if eviction notices had a taste, this was it.
It was at this point that our head guide pointed out that after all the trouble the villagers had gone through procuring me the mbege, not finishing it would be an insult tantamount to whipping my nuts out at a baptism. I forced a smile, tearing approximately sixteen cheek muscles in the process.
Desperate to unload some of this burden, I offered a swig to Tubs. He passed. (He was one of the unfortunates wrestling with gnarly water demons.) A climber named John stepped up to the plate, but he gagged and quickly returned the drink to me out of concern for his eyesight. Even one of the porters, a young man who I'd seen on the trail eating fly-covered eggs and other items on the margins of edibility, tried it and scowled. "Ewww... bad mbege".
Sweet.
Minutes slowly passed, and as I laboriously chipped away at the villagers' diabolic home brew, a not-so-dull rumbling in my gut told me a seismic shift in my bowels' tectonic plates was occurring. A series of hot fart palpitations registering 8.5 on the Sphincter Scale confirmed it. Kilimanjaro may have been a dormant volcano, but I was now sitting on a very active gas vent. My forehead began oozing that cold, clammy sweat that often precedes a hallucinatory bathroom pain ritual as my stinkjet continued sputtering like a Model T running on warm Schlitz. The mbege was taking the voyage from mouth to anus via the Autobahn!